Portsmouth and District Canoe Club Newsletter October

A week of gentle paddling in Scotland	A great way of seeing the Scottish shores
AGM	The date is sorted, see you there?
Around Portland	Well the day started well enough....
Cape Wrath	How did you spend your summer holiday?
Chairman's Report	A few words from RP
Committee Minutes	What was discussed
Isle of Wight Circumnavigation	This year we went clockwise!!!
Navigation Training	Interested in knowing how to get from A to B
Paddling with Dolphins	Sally Port - Bembridge with "guests"
Poole Weekend	At last the summer arrived!!!
Putney - Greenwich	Exploring the City
Round the Solent Forts	Two head off in teh Solent
'Sally Port' - Fareham	"Frogger" for kayaks
Stokes Bay - Bembridge	Does summer paddling get any better?
The Small Isles	Just off Skye is some great paddling
Trip List	Forthcoming paddles
Wednesday Nights	An update on what "the locals" are up to

Trip Leaders are reminded that their group should carry at least one radio and at least one set of flares. If you don’t have them borrow them from the club.

If you wish to attend please contact leaders as soon as possible, preferably by Thursday, so leaders can KNOW the strength of the group and let others know as they call in.

Trip List 2007 October, November, December Next Item Back to Top
Advanced Weekend
AGM
Eastney - Langstone Bridge
Eastney - Sally Port
Keyhaven - Newtown
Portsmouth Harbour from Stamshaw
River Dart / Barle
Round Langstone from Eastney
Round Portsea Island from Sally Port
Sally Port
Stokes Bay - Fishbourne
Warsash - Lepe (Night Paddle)

AGM 11^th November Next Item Back to Top
It is that time of year when we all get together and have a quick chat about how the year has gone and look forward to what we think the club should be doing. If you have an opinion on this please do not be scared to make it known. The venue is the same as last year, Nelson’s Bar (Southsea Leisure Centre). This is the trailer holiday park near Eastney Swimming Pool. It will start at 10:00 and probably end about 13:00. Again it is planned to have a paddle afterwards.

It is also the moment when the awards are issued by the club. There are two awards given. One is for services to the club and the other for personal achievement. If you would like to suggest someone for these prestigious awards then please get in contact with Russell as soon as possible.

The committee members are also fully paid up club members and paddlers. As such they also wish to see the club flourish – without your support with ideas and commitment the club cannot exist. Any support is always welcome. If you feel you would like to join the committee then please contact Simon Ashburn who will be happy to inform you what is involved. The committee meets every two months, usually at a committee member’s house, to discuss events coming up and prepare for future ones. Some jobs are more involved than others. Like a great deal in life, you get out of it what you put in.

Chairman’s Report Next Item Back to Top
It was lovely to see so many folks turn out for the club BBQ. I know the forecast was poor but again the weather men were not quite right for the Portsmouth area. We had had a dry if a little breezy time. Ask those who paddled from Eastney how breezy, (I suspect they returned in half the time it took to get to GAFIRS). I was encouraged by how many family members who support our members were present, especially those who help ferry on the A to B trips. It was nice that they could be included for once.

There have been some good reports from the Sweden trip, and I look forward to reading the full write up, hopefully in this newsletter. What I have heard has been encouraging. Indeed there have been some good trips this year, many of which have been well attended. I have heard that the Advanced weekend is fully booked, and if you would have liked to have been on this, please let me know so we can see about planning future courses. This has to be an "I want", rather than ‘that’ll be nice’ as we do have to pay the outside instructor who comes.

The week night events have been mixed from a weather point of view, the Monday night being very well attended. The Wednesdays have seen a dozen or more of us, down to one other and myself on the water. One of these occasions due to the regular people being in the Baltic.

During the BBQ we had a committee meeting and a couple of members intimated that they wished to stand down from the committee. If you would like to be, or know someone who should be on the committee, please forward the names to me soon. If you wish to stand as Chairman/Treasurer/Secretary etc. again please forward your name to me so that we can mention this at the AGM. Details of the AGM and proposed agenda are later in this newsletter.

Stokes Bay – Bembridge 22^nd July Next Item Back to Top
By John B
Having spent a few days away from the Solent but listening to very high winds hitting the south coast I was not sure who would be attending. So when regulars Andrew W, Dave W and Richard B were there I was encouraged (or was it because there was also a committee meeting after the paddle?). Dave was in his wooden kayak so we would be OK if we needed to set up an impromptu BBQ at Bembridge.

We were joined by Mick C and Paul F and just about arriving in time Dave G. The car park is now Pay and Display so having paid our debt to Gosport Council we were soon on the water near GAFIRS. Visibility was great and the weather far better than forecast so we could take an easy line almost straight across all the shipping lanes!!!

Crossing the car ferry and hovercraft was easy but we could then see that our course would mess up a container ship heading from the East. We changed course hard right for Sturbridge Buoy and upped the pace. Once on the other side of the channel we could steadily head towards Bembridge. With no problems or chaos the landing near the lifeboat station was soon reached.

Dave W had just spent a few days away so was making full use of some left over food and his trangier stove. The rest of us made do with sandwiches or similar whilst he had meat, onions etc on the go. The local ice-cream shop was made full use of as we lazed in the sunshine.

The tide was still heading east so we stayed close to shore on the way back. Once we had threaded our way through the moored boats at Seaview we were able to set a course towards the deep-water channel. Sadly all my plans to stick on a particular bearing were again wasted as East of us we could see another big vessel and there was another coming from the West. All were happy to again head for Sturbridge Buoy whilst we waited for them to pass us by. It seemed to take forever for them to catch us up but once they had done so we were able to head across towards Gilkicker Point, constantly watching for the hovercraft.

From here it was just a short distance to just past GAFIRS slipway where a few braved the chilly waters for some rolling practice. Thanks for coming folks it was a nice warm down to the week.

Wednesday Nights Next Item Back to Top
By Peter B
Russell asked me to say something about the Wednesday night paddles. First of all thank you to the impromptu trip leaders, often elected by popular acclaim at 5 minutes notice. Despite the limited range of venues; Sally Port, Southsea, Eastney, Sandy Point, Portchester and The Hamble; tide, weather and changing daylight hours mean that each week brings something new. Numbers on the water varied from 15 to 2 so there must be some fair weather paddlers around, no names no pack drill. Paddles included; battling into the wind, surfing down big waves, rough water rescue and towing, scary swell at the Chichester Pole, fast tides in the entrances, easy evening paddles in warm sunshine around the forts and across to IOW, waiting for traffic jams of ferries off the Sally Port, dodging kite surfers in choppy weather off Hayling or having only our paddles to disturb the mirror finish of the Hamble. Even a chance to do the club 50m swim towing your boat in a rough sea.

So try to find a way of leaving work early to make the 18.30 start and join us next year, guaranteed to increase your paddling skills and fun to boot. Plus the tradition of having a pint together afterwards…… just to wash the salt down.

"Cape Wrath, the furthest NW point on the Scottish Mainland is a wild place. A lighthouse stands on the headland above the caves and arches where the sea swirls and boils as it forces it’s way around the headland on it’s journey from the west coast of Scotland to the north coast and back again. The highest sea cliffs on the mainland are here at Clo Mor, 600 vertical feet of unclimbed rock. This is not a section of coastline to get caught out on. There are few landing spots on this rocky remote bit of coast. The headland of Cape Wrath is fully exposed to the Atlantic and rarely will there be a day without much swell." (extract from Scottish Sea Kayaking)

Oh, and just to complicate matters further, Cape Wrath is also a Ministry of Defence Live firing area and if it is being used, there is a danger losing your hearing as the RAF try and drop 1000 lb bombs on the small island of Duslic just off shore of the Cape – presumably in an effort to keep the puffin population under control.

Not being averse to the odd challenge however, found John and I setting off from Durness on a bright Sunday morning in mid July. This was part of Dave R’s latest plan to knock off one of the few remaining parts of the West Coast of the UK he had not yet paddled around. A weather window appeared to give us a forecast NE wind and we planned to arrive at slack tide, which we hoped would allow the rounding of the Cape in optimum conditions

Days before the trip, John (who had volunteered to provide the victualling) could be found wandering around the local Sainsbury’s with Dave Rawlinson’s list and judging by the quantity of food he had procured, starvation was at least one fate that would be unlikely to befall us. Luckily for us he paddled an Icefloe, so had plenty of room to stow it. For some reason though, there was always a daily competition to eat food from his boat…….. but it still finished the trip as the heaviest boat.

Back to the trip however…….. It was with some trepidation however that after weeks of preparation and pouring over the charts, we approached the Cape 3 hours after setting off from Durness. Visibility was excellent and if you could tear your eyes away from the confused water boiling around the Cape, it was possible to enjoy the magnificent scenery and plentiful guillemots and puffins (despite the best efforts of the RAF) in such a dramatic part of Scotland.

John had his MP 3 player and listened (reputably) to Kylie Minogue "wishing (incongruously) she was there", whilst personally, all I could here was the roar of swells crashing onto the rocks and the sound of my own blood coursing around my veins. Dave R and John opted to go slightly inshore whilst I (being distrustful of calm water that close to the cliffs) thought I could see a route through slightly out to sea – even if it did mean a bumpy ride. The confused water caused as the Atlantic swell met the wind and tide running west will be a lasting memory however – though sadly none of us have any useable photographs of this particular part of the trip to evidence it – can’t think why!

Once safely around the Cape, we then had a slightly un-nerving following sea for an hour or so on our southerly route past more magnificent sea cliff scenery to Sandwood Bay, where we landed though some small surf, for a brew and some late lunch. For a bay with no road access there were a surprising number of people on this kilometre long stretch of pristine sand - well at least 6 – most of whom had clearly heard about and were impeding Johns desire to take a comfort break. It was also whilst we were on the beach that Dave Rawlinson (who had been planning to do the journey for at least a decade) came out with the understatement of the trip; "If that was a good day – I would not have liked to have been here on a bad day".

Suitably refreshed by both lunch and the small drenching we received (though mostly John) on paddling back out through the now slightly larger surf, we continued on to find a bay for camping in that evening. This we achieved, landing just before 6pm at Droman having paddled a little over 21nm around what must rank as one of the most impressive parts of the coastline Scotland has to offer.

Day 2 saw us heading approximately South West again, this time in deteriorating weather conditions and after a brief stop on Handa Island (a bird sanctuary) for soup and sandwich we decided we may as well get wet paddling as sitting on the rock. It was an interesting launch, as the tide had receded leaving a 2 foot high vertical shelf over which to lower our laden kayaks. Once safely launched however, we continued Southward once again for Oldany Island.

We were just 2 miles off shore and the NE wind was causing a mild swell. Occasionally the Point of Stoer could be made out some 6 miles SW of us. With the weather improving we decided to radically change course and head for the Point. With some "decent" following seas it was with some relief that landing was made again just before 6pm on the southerly side of the peninsular (still in rain and by this time also with a wind that was doing its best to live up to the forecast force 7 and prevent us pitching our tents). After the entertainment highlight of the evening (deciding which Dave was going to have the luxury of sharing his tent with John) – it was an early night for all concerned.

Day 3 dawned with excellent visibility and bright sunshine – despite a forecast that was eerily similar to the previous day. Our route was to take us from the southern side of the Point of Stoer peninsular to one of the Summer Islands (named as they were reputedly used as summer grazing by the local crofters). The first headland was Rubha Na Cóigich just 7 miles away (but in reality was the coast of Skye, some 46 nm away – as we discovered that evening). An understandable error as the air is clear in that part of the world and some of the headlands are very high. It wasn’t until after almost 2 hours paddling later that John (and his GPS) persuaded us to re-evaluate and alter course to a more southerly direction. In hindsight this was probably a timely navigational decision, although we may have worked it for ourselves after another few hours paddling!

In a change from the previous days weather, today could not have been better, with continuing light winds and brilliant sunshine we chose to land and enjoy the afternoon on Tanera More, one of the largest islands. Uninhabited none the less, we enjoyed a glorious afternoon lazing around and exploring.

On our final day and after a brief trip to the nearby sandstone arch at Mol Bheag it was then the 12 nm run towards Ullapool. Having taped up our skegs the previous days, in an effort to cure leaks, both Dave and I freed them during this journey whilst we enjoyed watching a skegless John zigzag his way up the loch. Arriving finally at the lochside campsite, it was a choice between waiting almost 24 hours for the next daily bus to Durness or to try my luck at hitching. With few roads and reasonable weather I reasoned hitching could be a good option, so after a brief shower and with a karrimor survival bag (just in case I didn’t get any lifts and had to sit it out on the highlands) I set off. To my surprise, six lifts and two and a half hours later found me re-united with my car in Durness. Back in Ullapool 2 further hours later for a good night’s rest before the return drive.

"Although Wrath is a corruption of the Norse word Hvarf (meaning turning point) the word is nonetheless appropriate, for when the winds from the west meet the cliff walls, they surge upwards in freak inverted squalls, strong enough say fishermen to pluck a 30 foot boat from the water and send it out of control to be crushed at the cliff foot, or swamped in the monstrous swell." (extract from Blazing Paddles)

I hadn’t remembered the above extract from Brian Wilson’s epic journey around Scotland in the eighties, and in hindsight I’m probably glad I hadn’t.

My thanks to my companions for making it such a memorable trip. Particularly Dave R. for the inspiration and planning of the trip and John for his selflessness in willing to swap tents every night. With Dave having recently celebrated his 60^th birthday there’s no truth in the rumour he should be referred to henceforth, as the (B)old man of the Sea.

It was the first week of June when Alison and I picked up our friend, Sue, in Kendal, on our way to Oban. Alison and Sue did a final food shop in Oban’s Tesco while I sorted our gear. We used Ganavan Sands, two miles along the coast NE of Oban as our start point and car park. By the time we were ready, it was late Saturday afternoon. We paddled just a couple of miles – seeing the first of many seals on the way - to the Northern end of the island of Kerrara, opposite Oban, and found a pleasant campsite.

During the evening a number of ferries passed by within a few hundred yards, on their way to Mull and other destinations. The sunset was fine and the midges were not too voracious!

Next morning was grey but calm. We embarked towards our intended destination - to camp at the NW end of the island of Lismore. One of our stops was on Eilean Dubh where the locals showed their displeasure by squawking raucously while we had our lunch. Some more pleasant paddling took us round the north of Lismore, and it only took a few minutes to select an excellent campsite. It was slightly elevated, by an old lime kiln, and provided a view and just enough breeze to ... yes, you got there before me ... see off the midges !

I need to mention that Sue is an accomplished landscape artist. So our stops were punctuated by the need to do a quick sketch or watercolour. Evenings gave her more time to get into the swing and we often lost her for an hour or more. As you may guess, though, midges are not compatible with sitting still and painting, so Sue was occasionally exasperated by their attention.

Next day was fine and we retraced our steps to tiny Port Ramsay, with some beautiful small gardens. Then back round the north of Lismore, this time hugging its coast all the way south. It was flat calm and very hot at mid-day when we stopped for lunch by the pier at Acnacroish. Later in the afternoon we had a short break on nearby Eilean nan Gamhna, before the final push to the southern end of Lismore where I knew there was a splendid campsite. It overlooks the lighthouse that sticks out into the fast-flowing waters in the Sound of Mull. Here Sue finally had a chance to have a warming blaze in the evening.

Next morning, in good paddling conditions (slight breeze, not too hot) we retraced our steps up the coast for a mile before striking out the 4 miles or so straight back to the car at Ganavan Sands. We shopped for food for the rest of the week and then met Debbie, the 4th member of our party, who had been delayed a couple of days. We decided our end-of-week objective was the garden at Arduaine some 25 miles south of Oban, so a quick car shuttle ensured that Debbie’s car was left in the care of the very friendly Loch Melfort hotel. By then it was 5pm and the weather was deteriorating. Combined with the need to repack our kayaks, we made a quick and very good decision to adjourn to the near-by YHA in Oban for the night. We enjoyed Oban’s excellent fish and chips and gave Debbie time to unwind after her long journey.

By 10am the next day we were paddling past Oban and south down the Sound of Kerrera. Sue knew of a coffee shop on Kerrera and thus, spurred on, we found the correct beach and walked a pleasant mile or so on a track to the establishment. Upper Gylen is the location, not far from Gylen castle. The coffee and cakes are wonderful, and the unique and perfect loo is itself worth a visit! Sue checked out the cosy bunkhouse accommodation for a possible future stay.

After that we paddled the short distance around the southern end of Kerrera. Then north into Castle Bay where we camped in a perfect spot within 100 yards of Gylen Castle, now happily restored. Some highland cattle visited, but not too near and we enjoyed a peaceful evening.

Tides the next day to make passage through Seil sound were not favourable until the afternoon, so what to do in the morning? We knew the coffee shop opened at 10:30 and it was an even shorter walk to it than yesterday. What a shame to have to force down another coffee and cake. By mid-day we were on our way south, across a very fresh breeze funnelling down the Sound of Kerrera. Underway adjustments to our loads and skegs were necessary to make the kayaks track reasonably straight.

After a short lunch stop, we went to see if sufficient water was in Seil Sound for us to get through. For the record this was about 2.5 hrs before high water and we did get through reasonably easily, sliding under Seil's famous 'Bridge over the Atlantic'. On a previous visit, Alison and I had seen an otter here, but unfortunately not today. After the obligatory photos we continued to Balvicar where we walked to the island's main shop and stocked up with a bit of food and - yes coffees all round!

That night’s camp was on the mainland coast opposite Balvicar, where Alison produced yet another gourmet meal for 4 hungry mouths. The wind was still behind us in the morning and we had an easy ride south, until Loch Melfort where the wind was brisk, and we were pleased to have a break on an island. Another mile got us to the jetty near Aduaine and we left the kayaks there and walked up the road to the Melfort Hotel. We ‘did’ the gardens (http://www.nts.org.uk/Property/6 ) and sampled the hotel’s coffee.

To save time the next day (Saturday) my car and trailer was retrieved from Oban. We then paddled a mile to find an overnight campsite – unfortunately midgy, but the glorious sunset nearly made up for that. In the morning it was an early start back to the cars and we loaded and headed to Oban, where Alison and Sue got the train south and Debbie and I raided Tesco’s again for the next 2 weeks when 4 other friends and a yacht came into the story. But we don’t talk about "yellow wellies" in this publication, so I’ll sign off!

The Small Isles take their name from the comparison with their very large neighbour to the North: Skye. Four friends from mid-Wales and myself camped the night on the mainland at Arisaig and set off after loading the boats with camping gear, 8 days food etc. and 6 litres of water each since it was reputed to be scarce on the islands except for Rhum.

Eigg was 9nm away, wind N 2-3 and we expected about 1kt flowing from S to N. The first 2nm are close to a rocky shore but thereafter it was 2 ½ hours steady paddling across the Sound in a pleasant sea. Shearwaters just clearing the foredeck, and my forehead. Not much tide at all until near Eigg when it made the last mile hard work. The E shore of Eigg has few landing places, mostly a shore of large boulders with a constant swell. Near the port there are several sheltered sandy coves and we landed to stretch our legs and made a brew.

Once the tide turned we set off again around to the Southern tip and thence across to Muck. The seals on the Dubh Sgeir S of Eigg and the sister rock Godag N of Muck singing their seal songs to unwary mariners. After 16nm lifting the boats above the tideline and making camp drained the last of our energy. However, after a meal, we managed to climb to the highest point on the island to watch the sunset over the western isles at about 11.30pm.

Next day we circumnavigated Muck anti-clockwise calling in at the port for tea and bacon butties in the café (always open once a phone call summons the owner). There is also a water point. Porpoises on the crossing back to Eigg and then along the W coast of Eigg to the bay at the extreme NW having covered 14nm. A perfect campsite and lovely sandy beach. Walked up and along the ridge of Dunan Thalasgeir in the evening, fantastic wild flowers. A hen harrier was encouraging its young off the nest by dropping prey in mid air nearby and making them fly out to catch it.

It was flat calm and sunny when we set off for Rhum, not a breath of wind, so it was frenetic packing with the midges biting. The tidal atlas gave us 1kt S to N so we set off at a 15⁰ferry angle, after 200m we realised we had about 2kt N to S, so corrected, after a mile the tide started to follow the atlas. A family of minke whales passed 50m away, 3 large ones and a 1/3rd sized youngster. We landed at Dibidil, it would not be an easy landing in any sort of swell and this is the only possible landing for miles. A stream falls into the sea and allows replenishing water rations whilst on the water. Then around the S of the island, stopping on the storm beach at Papadil loch. The wind was now in our faces NW F4 and at Glen Harris the tide turned against us as well. Even though it was only 2pm we decided to camp. The mileage for the day 10nm. The coast is a fascinating wild place of cliffs rocks, caves and sea birds, I was stung by a bit of jellyfish that ran down the paddle, the water was full of them, like a nettle sting but then my thumb and forefinger went numb and tingly for an hour. After a cup of tea, a possibly unwise decision led us to walk the Rhum Cullin, much more rocky, steep and far away than they look, but with fantastic views. Staggering back to the tents at 9.30 pm too tired to even eat before collapsing into the sleeping bags.

As well as the 5 larger Small Isles there is a 6^th, Oigh-sgeir, which is a series of flat rocks with a light house 8nm W of Rhum, we could see it from the hills, but a visit would need settled weather.

In the morning the stream would have allowed a much needed bath were it not for the midges. So once again it was boat packing in a midge-induced panic. We continued around to the W coast, quite a large swell from the SW and wind N3 would have made any landing very tricky but set off some gurgling and hissing blowholes. We continued across to Canna. The rain cleared, the wind dropped and the sun came out allowing us an hour's sleep on the warm sand at our landfall, Tarbert Bay. Sand surrounded by a basalt Giant's Causeway. Once the sun went in we paddled around Canna, cliffs, caves, a sea eagle, rafts of puffins, basking shark, caves and stacks. Garrisdale Point on the extreme W also benefits from some interesting swell and tide. The rain set in together with a strong SW wind just as we landed and camped near Canna Castle. Another 17nm under our belts. Too late to order any food at the café near the pier…. too early to go to bed to escape rain and midges.

The morning was rainy and the wind still strong but the shipping forecast had it dropping 'later' so we had a walk over the bridge to Sanday to study the sea and enjoyed a lazy coffee and cakes at the café. By lunchtime the wind had eased so we set off towards Rhum. We had also timed our departure 30 minutes ahead of the Calmac ferry to be sure that there would be someone nearby listening on channel 16. The tide runs strongly near Sanday making the waves topple into white water, but we had seen that after ½ mile the sea settled down so paddled on confidently. The SW swell was rolling along, with 200m or more between crests, but the wind had dropped. Even the Calmac ferry, a mile away, was disappearing into the troughs and invisible unless we were at the top of a wave. Near Rhum the wind sprang up to F6 SE, we were glad there was only a mile to go. The W coast although sheltered from the wind had no landing spots in the swell so we continued around to the N where there are several sandy beaches. The rain stopped, the sun came out and we camped on the idyllic beach at Samhnan Insir. Today just 7nm. Very tame Red deer and a family of otters on the beach. A fisherman later told us it was locally called the Queen's beach since she had had the habit of landing there from Britannia.

With the S wind we thought of crossing to Soay and Skye but getting the right tides to make it back to Mallaig was almost impossible so we kept with our plan returning via Eigg.

Next day was windy again from the SW with heavy showers as we paddled around the island to the last landing point at Port-na-Caraneon on the S side of Loch Scresort. Then down the coast to Welshman rocks, the shipping forecast had predicted a lull in the wind and we set off into the mist, Eigg barely visible. Another crossing of huge swell, sea birds, porpoises. But the wind stayed light until we were almost across. Landing on the first shingle beach past the N tip of Eigg proved tricky and the sea tried to take the boats during our lunch break, despite having hauled them well above the highest swell so far and the tide supposedly falling. Then a long paddle into the wind along the E shore. Camped just N of the port after a total of 15nm. The lure of a meal meant we managed a 2-mile walk to the café near the pier head. Very windy in the night, gusting 7, and we had camped on an exposed knoll next to the sea to maximise the breeze against the midges. Morning brought us westerly 6-7, it looked as if we could raft up and be carried back to the mainland without dipping a paddle. The shipping forecast gave 6-7 maybe 8 later and no let-up the next day. The white horses and the 9 mile expanse plus the sight of a yacht struggling into the harbour under only a storm jib convinced us on the option of a very short paddle (1nm) to the quay to catch the Calmac ferry back to Mallaig at midday. All that remained was to hitchhike to pick up the cars. Our campsite only boasted a tap and toilet so the prickly salt rash had a reprieve until the hot bath at my parent's house in Appleby the next day.

Landranger sheet 39 for the islands and the old 1" map sheet 34 which covers both the mainland and Eigg for the long crossing proved more useful than charts. Tides are generally not strong enough to give problems running SE-NW on the flood and back on the ebb, but certainly help or hinder progress. Exceptions are the SW facing coast of Rhum, the W. tip of Canna and the E. tip of Sanday where slack water would give a drier ride.

It was the first official outing for the "new" tent! By the time Tymele and I had battled the Friday night Bank Holiday traffic most of the participants had already arrived. We just managed to get the tent in the pitch allocated and then went off to find the rest of the team. They were all grouped together and enjoying the warm weather that had been missing so often this summer.

Plans were schemed for the first of the three days in the South Devon area. The first day was to be from Wareham to Swanage and to assist in the parking it was decided to car share as much as possible. It was just as well as the planned parking area was now a Saturday morning market, oops. Unknown to us, Mike C had already been down and was already investigating alternatives. Andrew Wallace was on his way down from Twickenham so we unloaded the cars at the agreed start. There was a reasonable amount of residential parking in the area so I figured we would find somewhere to put two cars.

By 09:00 we were almost ready. Amazing, as we were not supposed to be on the water until 10:00! Andrew W arrived and having confirmed where Mike was we were soon on the water. With Alan C leading us out we threaded our way through the winding section of River Frome. This has a speed restriction of 4 knots but this did not seem to bother a few of the smaller powered craft that past us with a wash that made good surfing for Steve E. Once out of the river the front runners such as Peter B and Alan left the channel to cut across the first bend. They soon found out that even we need to follow the channel as their bow waves sucked the shallow water from under them.

The weather was perfect for the day and with no wind and plenty of sun we made regular stops for drinks. The heat managed to create a bit of sea mist but we could still see a few miles in the distance. Our route was to take us South of Furzey Island and as we got closer the ladies in the team (Jenny W, Liz B and Julie H) asked if they could investigate some of the shrubbery a little more closely. Despite the signs saying No Landing they were joined by a few others in the team whilst Andrew and I drifted past at ½ knot. The day had been quiet and reasonably free of other water traffic – heaven!!!

From here it was a reasonably simple crossing towards the chain ferry that marks the entrance to Poole Harbour. As we arrived so did the ferry but we waited for it to begin its route back before moving over its chains. That is when the world changed. The tide was pushing strongly out as expected causing some reasonably decent choppy waves. Boats had been waiting for the ferry so they could come in and out so we were suddenly in a world of noise, traffic and general 21^st Century pace. Fortunately we could keep inshore of the channel and let all the jet-skies and other noisy folks pass by us.

Lunch was ½ way along Studland Bay. This area is renowned for its "au natural" style and today was certainly no exception. Threading our way through the many moored craft towards Knoll House Beach. It was quieter in the naturist area but there were ice-creams and decent facilities near Knoll House. Even so the number of bodies on the beach caused us to find somewhere ¼ mile short. Ten kayaks take up a reasonable amount of beach on such a crowded area and we seemed to get disapproving looks from those with baby carriages walking along. The warm weather caused most to enjoy the sea for a quick swim. Alan & I stayed on shore to guard the kayaks and act as lifeguards just in case. Once all had had the chance for an ice cream we were on our way, in a way glad to be away from the madding crowd.

Old Harry Rocks was our next target but the tide was too low to thread through the archway on the point. A few managed to squeeze between Old Harry and the point itself but most went round the outside. On the South side is another arch that "had" to be paddled through. This section of rocks is a "must see". So often it is passed by without too much investigation. Today we had time on our side to take it steady. Andrew nearly got caught out by a surprisingly strong swell whilst navigating the next set of rocks but just managed to preserve his gelcoat. Most of the rest of the group had already taken the "outside line," those behind who saw Andrew decided to do the same!

Once past the headland it was a simple crossing of Swanage Bay. Despite the huge amount of flat water it did not stop a jet skier coming from Swanage and passing within 3 feet of me. The wash was not a problem but I wonder what less experienced paddlers might have done? Eventually we were closing on the Pier end of the bay with just over 14NM having passed under our keels. This was the longest distance that Gary Hepworth had ever done and in a kayak shorter than any of us, well done Gary. Some boats were dragged up to the car park and drivers taken back to Wareham to get their cars. The evening was spent getting to know those less familiar to most whilst enjoying the warm summer evening, magic. Thanks for a good day folks. We even managed to take in a lodger for the weekend in the mansion house!!!

This is an unusual paddle for sea kayakers however it does have several advantages:

The paddle was led by Andrew W who had worked out the tides times so that we got good tidal assistance from Putney to Greenwich. While we ate our sandwiches at Greenwich, the tide turned and we had some help going back to Putney. The flow down was quicker as we did the outward trip in 2 hours with the home trip taking 2 ¾ hours.

Andrew was still super fit from his Ireland training. He managed a paddle of 12 hours the day before and on Sunday paddled to and from his home making his total paddling for the weekend slightly short of 100 miles. Andrew’s weekend mileage was about half my annual paddling miles!

The group of 7 paddlers included Liz and Peter B, Andrew M, Mark B, Steve E, Andrew W and myself. As always on these trips, as well as having some great paddling, there was plenty to chat about on the way catching up with the recent French trip, Andrew’s new job as a Physics teacher now he is retired and checking out Steve’s new boat.

Despite the poor start to the day when it poured with rain while we were packing our boats, it turned out to be a lovely day out on the river.

Having packed up our tents and driven to Portland we were greeted by a chilly easterly breeze blowing in across the harbour which saw us donning extra layers and wearing cags to keep out the chill. Starting a little late we crossed the harbour to the North ship channel, weaving through a fleet of racing catamarans en route. Once out of the harbour we encountered some swell as we headed south, following the harbour wall. This increased slightly near the east ship channel entrance but soon died down again.

Leaving the harbour wall behind we continued to follow the coast admiring the view of the prison and having regular pauses to allow everyone to regroup. The sun was soon starting to break through and some of us were starting to feel warm with those extra layers on. Rounding Grove Point proved exciting for a few minutes as we encountered an area of rough water but we were soon through it, I think to the slight relief of some. We then had a pleasant paddle in the sunshine, enjoying the cliffs and passing through an area of glassy sea with boil lines on the surface, caused by eddies, as we approached the Bill. Looking for the proposed landing spot for lunch, both John and myself having been there before, we failed to recognise it and ended at the Bill. There being no likely landing places if we continued we had to back track a little until we spotted what we were looking for. We had a slightly awkward landing between rocks before finally being able to shed some our cags and cool down as we ate our lunch in the sunshine.

As we had set off late we couldn’t linger so were soon on our way. Johns plan was to round the Bill then head out to sea in an effort to take advantage of a large eddy which would bring us back in to Chesil beach. This was probably the hardest paddle of the weekend with a lumpy following sea making paddling uncomfortable. We seemed to make slow progress on this stretch and some of us questioned whether we were making any progress at all. John made reassuring noises, saying that the GPS showed us doing 2 knots and eventually we turned to head for Chesil. John made phone contact with Tymele on the beach to guide us in. "Pretending" that we couldn’t see her John got her to run up and down the beach and wave her arms about. Oh how we laughed! The landing was not as bad as we had feared and every one was soon ashore. The toughest part of the weekend ensued, with the carry over Chesil Beach and back to the car park. The end of an enjoyable days paddling. All that remained was to sample the chips and tea at the visitor centre café then make our various ways home.

Thanks to John for organising an excellent weekend. The paddlers were: John B, Andrew W, Peter and Liz B, Steve E, Julie H, Richard B, Mike C, Jenny W and myself.

After a very wet night and early morning, by 9.30 the rain ceased and I brightened up when someone actually turned up for the trip. No one had called to say they were coming, so I thought I might be blasting round a couple of the forts on my own as going round all of them was off the agenda after my wife made promise that if no one else showed up I was not to cross the main channel on my own, (as if it had crossed my mind!!!).

So now with Pete, who was unaware of who was leading the group, and having made a similar promise to Liz, we both had the excuse we were looking for. The wind was force 3-4 Easterly, which against the tide made for some lovely waves. Having told the Coast Guard of our intentions we pushed off, call sign "Sea Kayakers", I felt very proud! We rounded Spit Sand in 20 minutes, and No man’s land in 50min. There was no Soton traffic to hold us back for once, a few sailors had problems with our wakes, or was it just tacking against the wind?

We paused on the sandy beach of Percy Bay, having attracted some of the natives I boasted of the speed of our crossing from "PORTSMOUTH" shock, horror. "Was it not too rough in the channel?" they asked, confessing they own an Ocean sit on. Well with our puffed out chests, and Bondi beach lifeguard looks, you can imagine the answer. After the light refreshment, and watering of the flora, we hastened out to sea again. Good high noon surf launch, sea in eyes and mouth, but we could not be held back from conquering this wild beast.

15 mins took us to St Helens fort, which we passed in the lee of, I could not remember how the rocks lay round it, and the waves were well confused. Indeed I nearly had to roll had Pete not been at my side, the sneaky wave tried it on as I was popping my drinks bottle under the strings. An hour and 10 mins brought us into the lee of Horse Sands fort. The channel crossing had been fun as sometimes I could only espy Pete’s sun tanned dome above the swell, he had a little difficulty with weather cocking at times, it was really a long ferry glide using the Eastney Barracks tower to the right of the fort as a transit point. The tide had turned with a vengeance, although it was high tide and should have been slack water, there was still a considerable flow towards the harbour entrance.

The final stage saw us trying to land at 1.35. my first effort being rebuffed by the sheer angle of the shingle. Pete decided to practice his roll out and swim technique, apparently first attempted at Chesil beach, which happy to say was very successful. He kindly fought the breakers to hold my boat long enough for me to get out, my thanks to him for these heroic efforts. Not happy with having finished the paddle, he took a quick swim to the amazement of the crowds of promenader's who were obviously there to greet our return from foreign climbs. A fun day had by all, shame you missed it.

With impeccable punctuality, as usual with PDCC trips, we set off from Lee-on-Solent at 10am. There were eleven of us in total with Andrew W leading the group. Summer was making a comeback and there was an eclectic range of sun hats and shades in evidence.

The Romans called the island "Vectis". The Anglo Saxons used "Wihte ealond" and in the middle ages there were further variations such as "Wicht" and "Whyht". It is believed that the island was formed as recently as 7,000 years ago when the sea levels began to rise, as the ice caps retreated. The derivation of the name could be connected to the Welsh gwaith (work) and the Latin Vectis (lever). Wight could mean ‘what has been raised above the sea’

Paddling conditions were good and we reached Bembridge well ahead of schedule and had some lunch. After some discussion about tides, Ingrid conclusively showed with her ‘poo sticks’ demonstration, that the tide (or eddy) was going our way. We left about 2pm and because of a power boat race in Sandown Bay we were staying offshore for the passage. This gave us a great viewing spot for the Red Arrow display over Sandown seafront (thanks for organising it John. It was much appreciated). For about 15 minutes the Hawk jets produced a flawless, synchronised display of aerobatics that left trails of red, white and blue across the sky.

We passed Shanklin Chine, which was chosen as one of several places for the highly secret PLUTO or Pipe Line Under The Ocean project. These pipes were delivering fuel to allied forces in France by August 1944 and by the spring of 1945 were delivering over 1 million gallons a day. The pipeline consisted of over 500 miles of pipe, and pumping stations were disguised as shops or houses.

As the wind strengthened against us, we made slower progress. Like everyone else Peter, was getting a bit warm from the exertion and he decided to go for a swim. Axel helped him get back into his boat when he had cooled down. The Met Office uses St. Catherine’s Point Lighthouse, which is on the southernmost extremity of the island, as a weather reporting station. The race off the point flows at about 5 knots on spring tides, and with wind against tide, there are significant over-falls. We were passing through at a quiet time so had little to contend with. The present lighthouse at St. Catherine’s was built in 1838. The lantern was frequently capped in mist, so in 1875 the elevation of the light, was lowered by 13 meters. This did little to improve its appearance. The lighthouse was automated in 1997.

While the sun disappeared below the horizon we were given a spectacular display of oranges and reds in the sky above us. There was very little light left when we arrived at the campsite about 8pm. Some members of the group trooped up to the campsite to the en-suite facilities, whilst the rest of us roughed it.

I abandoned my (never used) ultra light tent because of the proliferation of seemingly unintelligible bits hanging from it, for a variety of reasons:-

Before dawn the ‘early birds’ set off and the other two tranches of paddlers had left by 6am. The sea-state was moderate although the headwind remained constant. As the sun rose, we could see its light reflected by the chalk cliffs in front of us. The group was nicely spread out, but we all rendezvoused close to the Needles. Andy was keen to stay in front of Ingrid and he was exploring the cliffs 100 metres away, waiting for us to catch up. The traditionalists paddled around the lighthouse, whilst the ‘nonchalant’ group took the easy way. There was a bit of lumpy water here, but it was short lived.

The original lighthouse was built on the cliffs overlooking Scratchell’s Bay in 1785 but its light was frequently obscured by fog. Trinity House built a new 109ft lighthouse that is perched on the most westerly rock of the Needles group. It started working on 1^stJanuary 1859 and was built of granite. Cellars and storehouses were excavated in the chalk bedrock. The lighthouse was automated in 1994.

On the site of the old Needles Battery there had been a top-secret space rocket and missile development centre. It operated between 1955 and 1971 and they developed the ‘Black Arrow’ and ‘Black Night’ rockets. In 1971 the only all-British satellite was launched into orbit by a ‘Black Night’ rocket. It should stay there until about 2200.

We had a mid morning break at Fort Albert. Rumour has it that Andrew M had a roast lamb lunch in the café, whilst the rest of us ate our sandwiches. When watching Andy steadfastly refusing to get out of his boat, it was noticeable that the tide was racing eastwards. With wind assistance, boats were making excellent progress in just the direction that we wanted to go. Needless to say, once we were back on the water, the wind and tide slowed dramatically.

The paddle steamer, Waverely, elegantly passed us as she headed towards the Needles. The Waverely is the last sea-going paddle steamer in the world and this is her diamond jubilee year. She was built on the Clyde in 1947 to replace the original Waverely, which was sunk at Dunkirk in 1940. She had a major restoration in 2003, substantially paid for by the Lottery Heritage Fund and now travels around the UK, giving nostalgic trips to as many as 800 passengers. She is owned by a charitable trust set up to preserve her and other steam driven vessels.

At Egypt Point, we grouped together in order to avoid disagreements with boats much bigger than us and we landed at Lee-on-Solent about midday.

Thanks to Andrew W for leading the clockwise circumnavigation of the I.O.W. and to John B for organising the Red Arrows display team.

Andrew W, Alan C, Andrew M, Andy M, Axel E, Ingrid M, Mike Ch, Mike Co, Peter B, Richard G, Tony S

Forget the Med, Scotland and other exotic places come to the Sunny Solent by the Sea and paddle with dolphins. We did.

The trip from Sally Port to Bembridge (16^th September) was modified because of the hike in parking fees at Sally Port, so we went from Stokes Bay. Many regulars were on their way back from Sweden so our intrepid band comprised two Daves – including me – two Mikes, Ramsey and Nigel. Adrian B and two friends from the Island were to join us at Seaview.

The forecast was for a strengthening of the wind at mid-day so we pushed out on time towards Bembridge in the knowledge that plans might need to be changed later. Shortly after departing the pod of dolphins that had been spotted the previous day picked up our sonar signals and came along for the ride. They must have followed us half of the way. Each time a cry went up "There they are", Mike missed them and he is convinced we all told porkies.

We arrived at Bembridge 4 minutes early. During lunch we had an interesting debate on the carbon trading implications of eating not one but two Mars Bars. Little did we know we would need the extra energy later.

We left the harbour early because of the strengthening wind and met Adrian and friends as they arrived. After a brief chat we went our separate ways.

We stayed close to the shoreline and went to Ryde before pushing out to the mainland. This was to put the wind at our backs and prevent a long crossing with a crosswind. All went well and after allowing several yachts and ferryboats to pass us we landed just before thickening clouds rolled over the Solent.

A slight change of plan by relocating the start of the trip near the Southsea Rowing Club. As many of the "regulars" were in Sweden it was no great surprise to have just four of us on the water. What we lacked in quantity we made for in quality…. Well you’d expect me to say that wouldn’t you? On a sunny morning there I was with Gary H, Paul C and Mike G heading across the main channel well South of number 4 buoy to play it "strictly by the rules." Some may not be aware that it is illegal to just pop across from Sally Port to the Gosport side of Portsmouth Harbour entrance. If you are less then 20 metres in length then you have to cross South of number 4 buoy (near the hovercraft) or North of number 1 (near the Gosport ferry). Once there you are supposed to keep in the small boat channel with vessels coming towards you on your left! If only some of the sailors can read the rule book or even the signs they pass!!!!!

We got across with no problems but as we made our way in the small boat channel a small yacht kept drifting across towards us. So "playing by the rules" we altered our course to keep him on our left. We had the tide pushing us well and to go the other side of him would have meant interfering with other yachts behind. As we passed close by I asked if he "knew there was a small boat channel here." "Yes," he assured me. "So why aren’t you in it??!" I asked. A stony silence and he went on his way. By now we were able to see the Ryde Fastcat slowly coming our way from in the harbour and were already making plans to get out of the way. I had seen a small rib heading to us and it looked official!! We were asked to get further inshore and having explained why we were in this location I had hoped that the "official" would go and explain what the channel meant to the yacht that had left it, forcing us out. Sadly he simply headed back into the harbour. I still have no clue who was in the rib.

We were now able to make our way up the harbour in relaxed comfort. Once past the Continental Ferry Port we followed the Gosport channel up to Fareham. The weather could not have been better and we saw our first Jet Ski as we arrived in Fareham Lake – what joy!!! With the tide almost at its highest we were just able to get under the road bridge at the Delmee Arms and have lunch.

The sun was great and it was with serious regret that we got back on the water. By now the tide had dropped and we easily got out under the bridge before retracing our route back.

Again there were no issues but a steady paddle and try not to get too sunburnt. Approaching the last marinas at Gosport we were overtaken by a Kirton Kayak paddler who seemed " to know what he was doing". Again playing it by the rules we stayed to the right and were soon approaching the narrows of the entrance. Ahead of us the Kirton suddenly spun round to face us as he entered the entrance, as if he was going to play. Just 50 yards away a father and son were paddling a sit-on-top. I hope they stayed away from the entrance as we were now at full flow out and it was not a place for beginners!

We caught the Kirton up and it was obvious he was not "in control." He finally mastered the art of turning the kayak around as we drew closer. Once outside the entrance we moved further to the right to avoid the huge number of sailors etc. This also meant we were not only out of the tidal flow but paddling against the eddy!.. We had no real choice so we slowly made our way to number 4 buoy to cross over.

With boats ahead and behind we had no chance of crossing. The water had a reasonable chop to it and in the far distance we could see a Cross channel ferry, Isle of Wight FastCat AND Car Ferry. Each had a gap between them but not enough to risk a crossing, so we just had to sit and wait it out near the buoy. Eventually a gap appeared and we quickly made our way across to the beach, phew!

Thanks for coming folks, a great day for a paddle and I am so glad we did not get run over!!!

Dave R has offered to organise another Navigation Day. Those that have attended in the past have been very grateful for the relaxed nature of the day and the information provided.

Have you wondered why leaders take the routes they do? How they manage to have the tide pushing most, if not all, the way? Do you just wish to refresh your knowledge?

If the answer is "yes" to any of these comments please contact Dave on. There is a small cost due to the need to hire the scout hut. We need names as soon as possible so don’t leave it until the last minute else you may find it has had to be cancelled. PLEASE give Dave a call NOW!!!!!!!