Guidance Notes

Welcome to the Portsmouth and District Canoe Club and we hope that you will enjoy your time spent with the club members both on and off the water. It was in about 1989 that the first set of Guidance Notes was produced by the Club. Up to that time new members were sent a collection of leaflets about the club. It was felt that it would be better to combine them into a set of notes to give more general guidance, not only about the club, but about equipment selection, where to buy kit and where to paddle. It is now a decade since that first set of Guidance Notes was produced. Inevitably they were looking a bit "dated" so this second edition has been compiled to catch up on the more recent changes in the sport. We trust it will continue to assist the newcomer to canoeing.

The term "Canoe" is now used to refer to the open type canoe that used to be called the Canadian Canoe; kayaking is now the preferred term for the other types of canoes that have enclosed decks. Throughout this booklet canoeing refers to all forms of activities in crafts propelled by paddles. Whilst the Portsmouth and District Canoe Club is primarily orientated towards kayaking, several trips each year are suitable for canoes.

In compiling these notes no attempt has been made to compete with the many excellent professionally-produced books on kayaking, so the reader should treat this booklet as an aide-memoire of the main principles of safe kayaking.

The booklet begins with a brief history of the club and its current aims. The club is a member of the British Canoe Union (BCU) which is the official national body that represents canoeing in the UK. The BCU has a structure of awards for assessing personal proficiency in canoeing skills and a separate scheme for grading instructors; these schemes are outlined briefly. The notes then summarise the main points to consider when choosing equipment and where you might buy good equipment.. This is followed by some comments on clothing and equipment required for a trip.

There are some interesting and safe kayaking waters in the vicinity of Portsmouth as well as some potentially dangerous areas. Some guidance is given on where, and where not, to paddle in this area, bearing in mind the effects of the weather and tides.

If you can suggest ways of improving this information without it becoming another BCU Canoeing Handbook, then please let us know.

Do remember that the committee and many of the ordinary club members are able to offer advice on a wide range of kayaking topics so make the most of their experience. If you do need their advice then speak to them when you are on the water or ring up one of the committee members whose telephone numbers are listed in the newsletters.

The Portsmouth and District Canoe Club was formally set up in the winter of 1979/80 because of an increasing interest in kayaking in the area, largely due to the efforts of the late John Drew.

John had been running night-school classes from 1975 at Springfield school, Drayton, and a small group of regular paddlers formed from the graduates of those classes. As word of the group's activities spread, it became apparent that many people in and around the area wanted to learn more about the sport and to practice with experienced kayakists. It was to satisfy this need that the club was formed. There are currently about 100 members. The aim of the club is to encourage people to increase their kayaking skills and enjoy the sport in safety.

The club is run by an elected committee which publishes a programme of events annually on a broad range of activities which run throughout the year. Although sea touring features largely on the programme, members are encouraged to partake in trips to other parts of the country, such as on the Rivers Dart, Liffey (in Ireland) and Wye. The club is affiliated to the British Canoe Union and members of the club enjoy membership of the BCU without further payment. Many members have, however, personal membership of the BCU because of their coaching qualifications.

A regular newsletter is sent to members. It contains articles of general interest, expedition reports and details of forthcoming events, such as lectures and courses.

All are encouraged to train for B.C.U. awards. At present the current membership includes a good number of B.C.U. qualified instructors of varying grades and disciplines.

During the summer months, evening meets are held at various places where instruction is available on the basic techniques of paddling and rescues. Through the club’s trip programme there is the opportunity to experience more exciting sea conditions off Hayling Island and to paddle over to the Isle of Wight.

The British Canoe Union (BCU) is the Governing Body for the sport and recreation of canoeing and kayaking in the UK. It represents the interests of canoeists at local, national and international level, and is a member of the International Canoe Federation.

The BCU encourages people of all ages and abilities to enjoy paddling, to gain access to the waters of Great Britain, to be properly and safely instructed, to be active in competition or to take advantage of the social aspects of being a club member.

The BCU is the leader in the exciting areas of developing the sport and the people who participate in the various canoeing activities ranging from Olympic Class competition to leisurely participation or touring. It also manages all the operational aspects of canoeing and has excellent links with many other sports bodies and institutions.

It is based in Nottingham, near to the artificial slalom course at Holme Pierrepont. As well as representing the sport it regulates many aspects of the sport to the members benefit. Competitions are held at both local and National level in slalom, flat water racing, kayak surfing and kayak polo, to name but a few. These different facets of the sport are organised and run by specialist committees. Other facets of the sport that are organised nationally include coaching, sea kayaking and lifeguarding. Touring and recreational kayaking activities are also organised for the non-competitive kayakist who simply wants to enjoy a paddle on gentle water.

Members of the BCU receive an annual Yearbook that lists all the courses and the contact names and addresses of the organisers.

The BCU has a system of Approved Centres which reach certain required standards of safety and instruction for canoeing.

Another important role of the BCU is to secure access for canoeists to the rivers of England and Wales. The BCU has a team of voluntary access officers, covering the majority of kayakable waters in Britain.). It is very important to ensure that you have permission from the landowner of the stretch of river before setting out on a river trip. A list of Access Officers is included in the annual BCU Yearbook.

The BCU has developed a system of personal proficiency awards for the different classes of canoeing, such as inland, sea, open canoe and placid water. The awards are known as star awards; star 1 is an encouragement award for beginners whereas star 5 is recognition of the advanced skills needed to tackle the most demanding water.

For those aspiring to an instructors role in canoeing the BCU offers a graded set of coach awards that require competence at canoeing skills, teaching ability, first aid and leadership. Not everybody wishes to follow this route but for those who want to return something to the sport in this manner this scheme offers a system that is recognised by other National bodies, such as the Scouts and Guides, and outdoor pursuits centres.

All members of the BCU receive the magazine "Canoe Focus", which is the official magazine of the BCU. It contains reports on competitions, expedition report, gossip about the sport and adverts for equipment for sale. For those wishing to build up their kit on a limited budget this offers some good bargains.

The newcomer to canoeing is often bewildered by the great variety of equipment available and, if he is not careful, he could spend a great deal of money on equipment which is not suitable for his eventual needs. It is difficult, of course, for the newcomer to predict the way in which his interest will develop.

So take your time when you are considering buying equipment, question other club members on why they use what they use and, where ever possible, try their kit even if only for a few minutes, in particular the boats and paddles. There may be the opportunity to buy second-hand equipment from Club members. Another source of other second-hand bargains is the adverts in the canoeing magazines.

Since the P&DCC is primarily a kayaking club these notes deal largely with this type of craft and canoe design is not dealt with in these notes.

Do not feel that you must go for highly specialised surf or sea kayaks from the start; you can gain a wealth of experience in a good general-purpose boat which can be used in a variety of situations.

There are, of course, sub-divisions of these two groups which you will appreciate as you gain more experience.

The two features which tend to determine to which group a particular kayak belongs are (a) its waterline length and (b) the curvature between the bow and stern, known as the "rocker". For touring on the sea and on relatively placid rivers, it is best to have a kayak from the first group so that the paddler does not have to correct for the influence of waves and wind. For rough river and surf work, where one needs to change direction quickly, a kayak from the second group would be preferred.

In the first group, the bow of the kayak cuts the water, giving a long waterline length. This makes it slightly faster and more resistant to waves and wind. The normal straight-line boats often have high decks which help to keep the paddler drier.

In the second group, which is favoured for slalom, the kayaks have very rockered hulls, and a rounded cross-section, which improve manoeuvrability. Slalom boats have lower decks, so the paddler often gets wetter. This group includes the specialist surf boats called "playboats" which are often about 2.5m long and are used for advanced acrobatics on the water. The beginner is advised not to buy this type of boat until he has gained a reasonable level of canoeing skills.

Generally, boats of both groups can be used on the sea, but the slalom type tends to be slower and some slight modification may be needed to improve their performance, as will be described later. The playboats are not suitable for general sea touring.

One type of kayak that is common in the P&DCC and which falls into the first group is the sea kayak. It has straight-running qualities, is relatively expensive and is most suitable for sea kayaking expeditions. If you aspire to crossing the Solent only occasionally, for example, there is hardly the need to purchase one of these boats which are not suited to rivers or for surfing. If, however, you want to do the longer sea trips then you will need access to a sea kayak or a long touring kayak.

Sea kayaks are generally equipped with bulk heads separating the kayak into several watertight compartments. River and general purpose kayaks do not have these.

Another point for the beginner to bear in mind is that, in general, the narrower the boat then the less stable it is.

Most sea kayaks are designed to have about 30 kg of load inside them, besides the paddler, so on a day trip they might be less stable if they are lightly loaded. This can easily be overcome by carrying a couple of bags of stones in the hatches until you get used to the boat.

It is strongly recommended that you try more than one type of kayak before buying one so that you can appreciate the differences between the different designs. Kayaks that look very similar can behave in remarkably different ways on the water.

Glass fibre used to be the most common material for kayaks but it is being replaced by polyethylene for many types of kayak. Kayaks made of this material are commonly called "plastic" boats. Although plastic boats tend to be slightly more expensive than glassfibre boats, they are much more robust and tend to be better fitted out and more comfortable.

Plastic boats are most common in general-purpose and whitewater kayaking. Slalom and competition boats are still made from glassfibre or more exotic materials, such as kevlar, in order to keep weight down. There are many sea kayak designs in plastic. Purists may still go for glassfibre construction which produces a stiffer and slightly lighter boat which may have advantages (e.g. speed, handling) on extended trips. Plastic kayaks – especially if using the newer, harder plastics – have advantages in robustness and also in carrying gear. They usually have larger hatches which makes the loading of equipment easier, and for better use of the storage space. Sea kayaks made of glassfibre and plastic are good value when bought second-hand.

All boats must contain adequate, and secure, buoyancy. Many boats, as supplied, contain only the minimum amount of buoyancy and the addition of more buoyancy may be advisable. Most kayaks have slabs of foam fitted vertically in the front and back of the kayak. Sea Kayaks usually rely on the air trapped in the hatches to provide the buoyancy.

It is an easy job to fit buoyancy using closed-cell foam blocks, specialist air bags or sealed plastic bottles.

Remember to secure the buoyancy in position so that it does not become dislodged in transit or in the event of a capsize. Care must be taken if buoyancy is being fibreglassed into place because the resin can attack some buoyancy materials.

These are invaluable, in sea and river work, to anyone trying to empty a capsized boat, and also when rescuing a swimming kayakist in a river. They can be fitted either round the edge of the decks or along the centre line of the boat. Pay particular attention to how you secure the decklines. You do not want to cause a leak in the top of the boat and the fittings must be strong enough to resist the rough treatment which occurs during a rescue.

Decklines must be strong and tight so use a line of at least 6mm diameter and incorporate provision for tensioning. A very important point is that decklines must not obstruct the cockpit area.

These are fitted at the bow and stern of the boat. Many boats have only loops fitted as standard but these can be dangerous. The reason is that if after a capsize you are holding on to your boat, and it starts to twist around, the loops can tighten on the fingers, and it has been known for the trapped fingers to be badly broken. Toggles are plastic tubes secured to the boat with rope. With toggles properly fitted you shouldn't have the problems loops can give.

Footrests must be fitted because the boat cannot be controlled properly without them. There are several types available, the choice is influenced by the boat's construction. If purchasing a new plastic kayak, consideration should be given to the continuously variable type of footrest which adjusts in seconds to any leg size.

Skegs, which are fixed rudders, are scorned by some paddlers but they are especially useful in sea kayaking if the paddler is in a general-purpose boat. A skeg is a fin at the stern of the boat and improves its directional stability, and thus helps the paddler to keep the kayak running straight. New sea kayaks often have retractable skegs fitted in skeg boxes in the rear hatch. They are controlled by a cord running through to the deck by the paddler. Otherwise skegs can be easily made or bought.

A spraydeck is a skirt which fits around the paddler’s waist and is used to seal the gap between the kayakist and the cockpit to prevent water entering the kayak. It can be made from a variety of materials, the most common being proofed nylon and neoprene.

Nylon is hard-wearing and reasonably priced. Neoprene is more hardwearing and can be tailor-made to fit your kayak, but is more expensive than nylon. The most important feature of a spraydeck is the release strap which must be securely fastened to the spraydeck and must be easily accessible at all times.

There is a vast range of paddles on the market. Some are made with plastic blades fitted onto aluminium shafts (or looms). Others are made of wood and some of glass reinforced plastic. Paddles are generally feathered - meaning that the two blades are usually set at 90^o to each other. Feathering is believed to reduce the wind resistance on the paddles. Some people find that a 90^o feather can give them wrist problems so a lower degree of feathering is used as a compromise, e.g. between 60^o and 90^o. If you buy a paddle in kit form then you can adjust the feathering to any angle you want.

Some of the more expensive paddles have cranked shafts. Again this may overcome wrist problems and some believe that this increases the power of the paddling stroke. These paddles tend to be expensive so, if cash is not too plentiful, buy a straight paddle.

The main consideration when buying a paddle is its length. As a general rule of thumb for the beginner, to chose one of the right length, stand next to the paddle, holding it vertically. With your arm outstretched above your head your hand should just curl over the top. If the paddle is slightly longer then don't worry. However for sea kayaking it would be unwise to buy one that is too short. On the other hand, for some forms of river paddling a shorter paddle is to be preferred.

Another point to check is whether the paddle is left or right-handed. This will be especially important if you are left-handed and buying a paddle with curved (".dished" or ".spooned") blades. When checking the length, hold the paddle with the face of the lower blade towards you. If the paddle is right-handed, the face of the upper blade will point to your right.

Never paddle without wearing a floatation device. There are many types on the market but they are divided into buoyancy aids and lifejackets. A buoyancy aid is a foam-filled jacket that gives positive buoyancy the moment it is immersed. A lifejacket has some foam buoyancy but achieves maximum buoyancy by being inflated. Most kayakists use buoyancy aids for comfort. There is no evidence that either type is more or less safe than the other for kayaking.

Choose a buoyancy aid which conforms to the CE50 standard. It should also be approved by the BCU for canoeing.

If you decide to buy a buoyancy aid for sea kayaking then consider one with pockets. These are more expensive but pockets are very useful for carrying emergency equipment (and Mars bars!). For the affluent kayakist, a buoyancy aid with a built-in tow-line and harness is worth considering.

Kayaks can be heavy and may need carrying some distance when they are partially, or fully loaded. It is important to learn to lift and carry kayaks safely so that you do not hurt yourself. Some general rules for safe lifting and carrying are :

Most kayaks are transported on car roofracks. Boats which have not been secured properly are sometimes completely destroyed after being launched involuntarily from roofracks, not to mention the possibility of serious injury or accidents. When transporting kayaks bear in mind the following points:

What you wear when kayaking should serve a number of basic functions. It should:

When choosing clothing to keep you warm and dry you should remember that the body loses heat as follows:

From this you will see that it is particularly important to protect your head and thighs from loss of heat. It is better to gain more protection from a number of thin layers of clothing rather than a few thick layers. This is because it is the air, trapped between the layers, which keeps you warm. Thin woollen jumpers are excellent over a thermal top. It is also easier to dry thin clothing rather than thick, bulky clothing.

Modern polyamide thermal clothing and fibre-pile offer the best solution. These are usually thin and so you can wear as many layers as you need and they dry very quickly. Thermal tights or longjohns are ideal for the lower body and vests for the upper body. Many layers incorporating sleeves often inhibit arm movement.

The upper body should also be protected by a waterproof shell such as a short nylon cagoule. Remember that wind chill can increase the heat loss dramatically. For a given air temperature, the stronger the wind the greater the potential heat loss. So a waterproof cag is a vital item of clothing to keep out the wind and is more important for this reason than to keep off the rain. You may wish to wear waterproof nylon overtrousers to keep the legs warmer. Both cagoules and over-trousers must be relatively close-fitting so as not to hinder swimming.

Soft footwear e.g. gymshoes or neoprene boots should be worn on the feet; avoid stiff soles. A cap or woolly hat, and for surf and white water, a kayaking helmet should be worn, perhaps over a neoprene hat for warmth.

In warm weather, shorts and a tee-shirt or vest is usually adequate on inshore waters, but carry something warmer in your boat in case the weather turns cooler.

In addition all paddlers should wear a recognised buoyancy aid or lifejacket on all grades of water. It is the P&DCC policy that all paddlers must wear a floatation device on club organised trips.

In hot sunny weather it is important to cover your head to avoid getting sunstroke. Don't forget to use a sunscreen to avoid sunburn.

The reflection of the sun's rays off the water and the associated glare can be very painful on the eyes and sunglasses, preferably of the polarised type, may be useful. Beware that cheap sunglasses may be more harmful than beneficial.

In cold, wet weather a piece of old towel around the neck will stop rain running down your back and help keep you warm. In winter paddle mitts can keep the hands very warm by reducing the wind chill factor.

Shoes and wellies should never be worn in kayaks. They are too bulky, their soles too stiff and your feet are much more likely to get trapped in the kayak in the event of a capsize. They also make swimming impossible.

Denim jeans should never be worn for kayaking. When denim gets wet, as it inevitably will when kayaking, then it sticks to your skin and heat loss is accelerated up to 26 times faster than in air. Jeans also reduce swimming efficiency. Long nylon cagoules as used by mountain walkers are not suitable for kayaking as they restrict leg movement whilst swimming after a capsize.

Wet-suits are by no means essential for kayaking and in hot weather can in fact be a danger, allowing the body to overheat. For winter kayaking and where there is a high risk of capsizing, they can be of benefit. Three points worth considering when choosing a wet-suit for kayaking are:

Chose one made from thinner neoprene (3-4mm) to allow freedom of movement. Make sure that there is plenty of room around the backside ... you will be sat down most of the time you are wearing it.

Most paddlers find the sleeveless, long-john style most comfortable. Sleeves restrict arm movement and can be uncomfortable.

Don’t forget to cover the head when doing surfing or white water. As well as a helmet consider wearing a neoprene skull cap, or even a swimmers cap. This can prevent excessive heat loss through the skull. Earplugs are also advisable to protect the ears and a nose clip can reduce the amount of water that you might swallow. Although the likelihood of picking up infections from the water is very small one must be aware of the possibility.

Finally, spraycovers don't just keep the water out of your kayak, they also trap the air inside and help keep you warm.

There is a wide variety of equipment on the market. Before spending a lot of money on kayaks, paddles and clothing, look at other people's equipment and ask them why they chose what they did. The amount and type of equipment you need for the trip depends on the nature of the trip and the time of year. Never underestimate the insidious effects of the cold, wind and the wet. Always carry some spare clothing, food and drink. You may not have to use them, but if conditions deteriorate they could make the difference between an exciting trip and an epic! And if you do not need them someone else might.

Try the check-list system; it works like this ... Before you go on a kayaking trip, make a list of everything you take with you, then, when you return, cross off everything you could not possibly have needed, but add anything which was forgotten. Soon you will have a comprehensive check-list from which to work.

Kayak (including adequate buoyancy)	Paddle
Buoyancy Aid/Lifejacket	Spraydeck
Nylon cagoule	Footwear
Hat	Pullover
Waterproof trousers	Food
Thermos flask with hot drink	First Aid Kit
Spare clothes including footwear	Repair Kit
Money (especially for the phone)	Waterproof bags/containers

Flares	Exposure bag	Torch
Compass	Spare paddles	Towline
Matches	Repair tape

Most experienced paddlers in the Club will be carrying everything from both lists and maybe other items as well. Keep an eye on them! Some have been kayaking for 15-20 years and they still enjoy it. Some will get out of their kayaks at the end of a days paddling and still be dry. Being cold, wet and uncomfortable is not their idea of fun!

Cotswolds – The Outdoor People
13 Lower Northam Road Hedge End, Southampton.
Tel : 01489 – 799555

Whitewater - The Canoe Centre
Shepperton Marina, Felix Lane, Shepperton, Middlesex
Tel. 0932 247978

Remember that good secondhand bargains can be obtained through the adverts in the canoeing magazines.

It cannot be over-emphasised that the conditions on the sea or on a river can change dramatically with the weather. It must not be assumed, therefore, that because a trip which was previously paddled on a calm, sunny day, was easy, that it will be easy in the middle of winter. So, before going on any trip, check the weather forecast.

Provided the weather and tides are not excessive, the following are some interesting and less serious trips for properly equipped kayakists travelling in groups of three or more:

Areas where you should not venture until you are experienced, and you are accompanied by very experienced paddlers who know the areas, are:

Calshot Activities Centre
Calshot Spit, Fawley, Southampton, SO45 1BR
Tel : 023 8089 2077

Cricket Camp Site (for Scouts)
Paulines Lodge, Manor Farm, Country Park, Pylands Lane, Bursledon, Southampton
Tel : 023 8034 05151

Foxlease Activity Centre (for Guides)
Clayhill, Lyndhurst, Hants.
Tel : 023 8028 2638

A full list is available from the BCU Head Office of their Approved Centres. SAE please. White water kayaking takes place at the following national venues:

National Watersports Centre, Holme Pierrepont, Adbolton Lane, Nottingham. (0115 982 1212)
White water slalom course (man-made) open daily; sprint racing on regatta course. National and International events.

National White Water Centre, Canolfan Tryweryn.
A white water course on the dam-controlled River Tryweryn. Used during period of water release. For up to date information phone the 24 hour answering service: (01678 520826)

Introduction	Notes for Novices
The History and Aims of the Club	Essentails for ALL trips
Club Structure	Equipment for extended trips
What is the British Canoe Union (BCU) ?	Clothing for Kayakists
Construction of Boats	Floatation Devices
Boat Types	Spraydecks
Points to Consider when Buying Kayak Equipment	Paddles
Bouyancy	Lifting and Carrying Kayaks
Toggles	Safe and Unsafe Waters in the Vicinity of Portsmouth
Footrests	Local Stockists of Kayaking Equipment
Decklines	Centres Offering Kayaking Courses
Skegs	Selected Bibliography

	Buoyancy Aid	Lifejacket
Advantages	Requires no attention to gain buoyancy. Keeps you warm and provides body armour.	Person will float face up assuming he/she is able to inflate it.
Disadvantages	Person may float face down if unconscious	Requires inflation for full efficiency.